I was quite surprised when I arrived at my hostel in the Kerameikos area of central Athens. Almost all the shops around us were Chinese wholesale retailers, mostly selling clothes, but also some hardware and electronics. This continues into the neighbouring Metaxourgeio district. Moving a bit east, towards the more central Psirri area, the run-down streets gradually blend into a largely South Asian quarter. There are many small shops and even informal street markets serving mainly Pakistani, Bangladeshi and Indian expats — grocery stores, cheap takeaway places, phone and money transfer services, and low-cost clothing and household goods. Further towards the centre, Psirri becomes more lively and trendy, with plenty of restaurants and bars, until it reaches Monastiraki, the busy and more elegant heart of the city at the foot of the Acropolis. North of Psirri and east of Metaxourgeio lies Omonia, which feels rougher. There are many immigrant-run businesses here as well, but also a ...