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  Gangnam means "south of the river," referring to the Han River, which divides Seoul in two. However, it is just one of several districts in the area. Korea's tallest building, Lotte World Tower, is located in Jamsil, Songpa-gu (Songpa District), a neighboring district. Another notable landmark is Some Sevit, a floating island complex in Seocho-gu, another adjacent district. That said, Gangnam remains by far the liveliest, most upscale, and most diverse area "south of the river". It is also a vast district, consisting of multiple hubs, each offering unique attractions. Below is an overview of these key locations and sights. 

  Within Mapo-gu (Mapo District), you find two lively hubs: Sinchon and Hongdae. Both are located near major universities and have a vibrant atmosphere filled with cafés, shopping, street performances, and clubs. Sinchon, home to Yonsei and Ewha Womans University, has a strong student vibe with budget-friendly eateries, fashion stores, and a bustling pedestrian street. Hongdae, near Hongik University, is famous for its indie music scene, K-pop dance buskers, and trendy nightlife, making it a hotspot for young creatives and partygoers alike.

  The attractions around Dongdaemun, located in the eastern part of central Seoul, span two districts: Jung-gu and Jongno-gu. The futuristic Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP) and the historic Heunginjimun Gate are situated in the former, while Naksan Park, featuring the Seoul City Wall Trail, and Ihwa Mural Village are in the latter. Nearby, Gwangjang Market, located next to Cheonggyecheon Stream, is famous for its Korean street food.

  Located north of Jong-ro (Jongno Avenue), Jongno-gu (Jongno District) is home to many of Seoul's most important historic and cultural landmarks. These include Gyeongbokgung Palace, several Hanok Villages—traditional Korean neighborhoods featuring hanok (한옥), Korean-style houses built with wood, clay, stone, and hanji (traditional Korean paper)—as well as historic temples, shrines, and Confucian academies. The district offers a fascinating blend of royal history, traditional architecture, and cultural heritage.

  Located south of Jong-ro (Jongno Avenue), Jung-gu (Jung District) is the center and one of the most diverse areas of Seoul. It is home to Seoul Station, the city's main transportation hub, as well as historic sites, skyscrapers, and modern architecture. The district also features bustling markets and street food vendors, vibrant entertainment hubs, popular shopping streets, and a lesser-known but fascinating alternative quarter. Featured in a separate post, Namsan Mountain is also here. Below is an overview of these locations. 

  Like Germany and Europe, Korea was torn apart after World War II. Growing up in a Soviet satellite state, I longed for a Western democracy and believed the West held moral superiority. However, I now understand that the U.S. and its allies were just as ruthless and deadly as the Communists. It’s always tragic when soldiers die, but both sides were responsible for the deaths of around a million civilians each - let them all rest in peace. A peaceful reunification may not happen in the near future, but perhaps one day it will, God willing. 

  Located in the centre of Seoul, Namsan Mountain offers the best panorama of the city. Standing at 270 metres, it’s not particularly high, but those who prefer to skip the climb can reach the top by cable car or bus. At the summit sits N Seoul Tower (with "N" standing for Namsan), which provides an even more spectacular view, but even from the various viewpoints at its base you can see all parts of the city. While the area is quite touristy, it’s definitely worth a visit.

  The train ride from Busan to Seoul was pleasant, although it was the slowest of the high-speed trains I had taken recently, traveling at around 160 km per hour. However, arriving in Seoul was a shock! It had been chilly in Busan in the evenings, but the days were sunny and quite comfortable. Seoul, on the other hand, was absolutely freezing! At least I managed to get a room—I didn’t have to spend the night on the street like some unlucky folks.