Visiting Kuélap independently - when it reopens
One of the main reasons to make the long journey across the mountain ranges of Northern Peru to Chachapoyas is to visit the archaeological site of Kuélap - it is so different from all the other historic attractions you find in the country. However, it turned out, the site is indefinitely closed for some reason. Hopefully it will reopen some time in the future, so here is the info on how to visit it independently. It's quite easy, no need to take an expensive tour. (Update: The site reopened in 2023. Info & tickets on kuelap.cultura.pe.)
You could visit Kuélap from Chachapoyas in one long day, but in my opinion it makes more sense to stop there and spend a night or two in the area, and visit other nearby attractions as well, namely the mausoleums of Revash and the Museum of Leymebamba. There are two villages where you can find accommodation, Tingo and Nuevo Tingo. The first is along the main road and this is where most colectivos stop. The latter, the new village, is atop the hill that stands above old Tingo. You can take a taxi there when one comes along, or walk 20-30 minutes up the stairs. The ticket office and bus stop to Kuélap is on the outskirts of Nuevo Tingo. The bus connects to the cable car which is operational.
Map of Tingo and Kuélap
This is the only restaurant in Tingo, which is also the colectivo stop. The cheapest accommodation is right behind it in the white building. Quite basic and no internet, but the family who runs it was nice.
From the main road you have to take a secondary road, then head towards the stairs visible on this picture. The path to the beginning of the stairs is behind the pictured house.
When you reach the top, you get to an asphalt road. A little uphill from there is the ticket office and bus stop.
Nuevo Tingo is in the other direction on the hill top.
The main square of Nuevo Tingo.











