Migrant quarter in Athens center
I was quite surprised when I arrived at my hostel in the Kerameikos area of central Athens. Almost all the shops around us were Chinese wholesale retailers, mostly selling clothes, but also some hardware and electronics. This continues into the neighbouring Metaxourgeio district. Moving a bit east, towards the more central Psirri area, the run-down streets gradually blend into a largely South Asian quarter. There are many small shops and even informal street markets serving mainly Pakistani, Bangladeshi and Indian expats — grocery stores, cheap takeaway places, phone and money transfer services, and low-cost clothing and household goods. Further towards the centre, Psirri becomes more lively and trendy, with plenty of restaurants and bars, until it reaches Monastiraki, the busy and more elegant heart of the city at the foot of the Acropolis. North of Psirri and east of Metaxourgeio lies Omonia, which feels rougher. There are many immigrant-run businesses here as well, but also a large number of homeless people and those struggling with alcohol or drugs — most of them Greek. During the day it feels a bit uncomfortable, and after dark not too safe. That said, Kerameikos, Metaxourgeio and Psirri are generally safe — it was just surprising to me, as it felt almost like being in China or Pakistan. These neighbourhoods are full of old, often beautiful but neglected and ruined buildings, all covered in graffiti, alongside some impressive street art and murals. It’s quite sad to see the level of decline, and it made me think: without these immigrant communities, there would probably be no shops here at all — just empty streets and homeless people. Personally, I like South Asian food, and I found some great places serving huge portions of authentic curries and biryanis for around €5, so I was happy. (And before anyone takes offence — Greek food is excellent too, but it’s nice to have some variety.)
