Visiting the tribal market in Onukudelli, Odisha, after 23 years

 


The tribal market in Onukudelli is still on every Thursday, just as in the past. But many things have changed in the 23 years since my last visit. On the other hand, there are things that seem to have remained the same. All in all, I had a great day again, partly due to the sago palm wine. 

See photos and story from 2000. 

Actually, there are two markets in Onukudelli today. The government built a new one on the outskirts of the village, and some people moved there, others stayed on the main street where it was before. And the new one became more of the tourist attraction, this is where the Bondo (Bonda) tribal ladies and tourist groups go. This is the new market, but it's still early, not many people around. 



People start arriving on foot and vehicles.









The Bondo ladies now charge for photos, and posing for the camera became one of their economic activities. According to my source, they don't wear the traditional attire back home, they dress up for the market. You can also notice that some of them don't have the big metal rings around their neck and/or wear modest, full body Western type dresses. 



Posing with tourists.




The market is slowly filling up. 









The tourist groups start arriving. There were two bigger ones and several smaller groups. 















But you can also see untouristy, traditional aspects of their lives. While the younger Bondo men wear long trousers and jeans, not sarongs like the older ones, they are still very interested in metal arrow heads. None of the men have their bows and arrows with them, as in the past, but apparently they have them home. 







Another traditional aspect of their lives is the production, consumption and trade of alcohol. Sago palm wine is one type, but they also have other types.




Another walk around the market, when most of the tourists are gone.










The old market in the village centre has a more local feel. The Bondo ladies mostly stay in the new market, where the tourists are, unless they followed some departing tourists all the way here. 






















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