Onukudelli, tribal villages, and the Duduma Waterfalls

Onukudelli, spelt in different ways, is a largely unknown village high up in the hills, on the border of Odisha and Andra Pradesh. The Machkund River divides the two states, and there is a spectacular waterfall near the village, the Duduma Falls. But the main reason tourists visit Onukudelli is because of its colourful and unique tribal market. The only tourists who come, however, are expensive tour groups, and the participants probably don't even know what the place is called which they visit. Independent travellers virtually never come; they don't know about it, and even if they do, it is difficult to reach it and there are no tourist establishments at all.

Getting there and away

From Bhubaneshwar I took an overnight train to Koraput, where I was told buses to Onukudelli go from nearby Jeypore. There is a government and private bus stand in Jeypore; buses to Onukudelli go from the latter which is at a petrol station. I was told it will depart around 11:00-11:30, from opposite the petrol station, from in front of a new hotel, and the bus is called Panigrahi (pronounced as Pani-gray). It arrived on time, but didn't depart until 2:30 PM - instead, cargo was loaded on it at different points in Jeypore. Then, after departing, the bus stopped in every village to unload some of the cargo, and so it was 6 PM by the time we covered the 65 kms road and arrived in Onukudelli.

Leaving Onukudelli, heading to Visakapathnam, wasn't that easy either. The first 2 buses that were supposed to come didn't come. Then a local bus came that meandered through the fields to stop at as many villages as possible, and finally it took me to Lamptaput. From here, I had to take shared auto rikshaws for short stretches, until I reached Araku Valley. From here, there was a government bus service to Visakapathnam, but I had to wait a good while. It was after 7 PM that I arrived, so the 200 km long trip took more than 13 hours and involved 7 different vehicles.

Onukudelli

There is no tourist accommodation in Onukudelli at all! In 2000 there was one guest house but it closed down. Luckily, I got in touch with the son of a local man I knew from 2000 and he helped me out. He also works as a guide. If someone wants to visit Onukudelli independently, probably this is the best option: find a guide and agree to take a tour, and he would probably provide you accommodation and food for free. Onukudelli otherwise is a cute little place in beautiful surroundings.

Tribal villages around Onukudelli

In 2000 I visited several tribal villages and stayed at one overnight, on the invitation of a German anthropologist. Today, the idyllic traditional villages are all but gone! Paved roads have been built, electricity was connected, and locals and the government built many new houses, facilities. You still find some nice old buildings, and I also found a familiar face - a Gadoba lady I met before.

The Duduma Waterfalls

In 2000 there was nothing here, only untouched nature. Today a little tourist complex stands at the falls, with a carpark, stairs and paved paths, a restaurant, and local vendors. A Hindu temple was also built, and the friendly priest is happy to share the chillum around. You can get down to the upper section of the waterway; here, everything is still natural. A stunning site!

Sago wine at the Duduma Waterfalls

Right next to the tourist complex, or perhaps within it, you'll find a few simple houses and tall sago palms. Locals make and sell Sago wine; it is the world's simplest method of making alcohol. The palm tree is slashed at the top and a container is placed under the cut to collect the dripping liquid. On the sun it ferments and naturally becomes an alcoholic drink, so when the container is lowered in the evening, it is ready to serve as it is.