Toniná - The tallest pyramid in the Americas and no tourists
Toniná is said to be the tallest pyramid in the whole of the Americas, yet very few people visit it. I had it all for myself, only a couple of Mexican tourists turned up when I was already leaving. The pyramid is overgrown with thick vegetation on three sides, only the front is cleared, but it is still quite grassy despite the constant maintenance. So the pyramid is not as striking as if it was all stone, standing alone unobstructed by trees, and it resembles a hill. It is still a stunning site. A big part of the site is closed for visitors but you can walk up to the upper level where there is a number of smaller pyramids. Along the way up you can visit a mini labyrinth, several carvings, ruined buildings, and you have amazing views. The way down is along the main staircase, and there is also a smaller temple and a pelota court in the compound. The on-site museum was closed when I visited.
Getting there and back
1. Colectivo station to Palenque or San Cristóbal; 2. Central square; 3. Colectivo station to Toniná; 4. Turn-off to Toniná entrance. (Some colectivos drop you here, some go all the way to the entrance.); 5. Toniná entrance.
The colectivo station in Ocosingo is in the market area, and the trip to the archaeological site takes about 20-30 minutes. You may get taken right to the entrance, but on the way back it is better to walk to the first crossroad (4) and try to get a ride back from there. Colectivos are quite frequent. When I visited, a checkpoint was there manned by a friendly boy around 12, equipped with a walkie-talkie.
Map of the site
Original maps:
The site in photos






































































































































