A scenic hike in the Buda hills - route map, info and time-lapse video

A little no-frills guide to one of the most scenic hikes in Budapest with the essentials: short overview, the route map with waypoints, elevation profile, hike description with info about the waypoints, and a hyperlapse video of the hike. That's almost a miniguide! 

A slice of the 360-degree panoramic view from the Elizabeth Lookout.

Legend: blue - bus routes; light blue - cog-wheel railway route; red - Children's Railway route; purple - chairlift route; yellow - tram route; green - hiking trail.

Waypoints: 1. Széll Kálmán tér, bus stop; 2. Fülemile út bus stop; 3. Children's Railway Normafa stop; 4. "A Normafa kapuja" park; 5. Visitor Centre; 6. Normafa Síház - ski house, restaurant, kiosks; 7. Viewpoint; 8. Anna rét - playground and several fireplaces; 9. Szent Anna chapel; 10. Chairlift upper station; 11. Observation terrace; 12. Fork - shortcut via forest; 13. Elizabeth Lookout; 14. Tündér-hegyi quarry - fireplace; 15. Tündér Rock; 16. Junction; 17. Rock, viewpoint; 18. Zugligeti Niche Camping; 19. Chairlift bottom station; 20. Zugliget bus stop.

Distance: 6 km; Elevation gain/loss: 240 m / - 490 m

Overview

Arguably Normafa and János-hegy offer the best views of Budapest, and there are unique ways to approach the area such as a cog-wheel railway, a narrow-gauge railway operated (in big part) by children, and a chairlift ride. As you can guess, this area is very popular with locals and foreigners and can get very crowded on weekends and holidays. One big draw is that in many designated spots it is allowed to make open fire and cook in a traditional Hungarian bogrács or any way you like it. You can gather dry wood from the area and it is often provided next to the fireplaces by the forestry. During droughts, however, it is strictly forbidden to make fire - it is signposted and announced on the internet. Look it up before you make any plans for a BBQ. 

The route described here is the most straight-forward, starting at Normafa all the way to the upper station of the chairlift and János-hegy topped by the Elizabeth Lookout. It is free and open long hours around the year, and you get a magnificent 360-degree view of Budapest and the Buda Hills. Finishing the walk with a chairlift ride down to Zugliget is an option, and a very scenic one, but there is also a narrow steep path that goes more or less parallel to the chairlift. This path passes characteristic Tündér Rock and there are several designated fireplaces next to it. It ends at the lower station of the chairlift from where you can take a bus back to the centre of Budapest.

The hike

You can take buses number 21 and 21A from Széll Kálmán tér (1) and get off at the Fülemile út bus stop (2), right after the Svábhegyi water tower. If you need to buy anything, there is a CBA across the road and a tobacconist. A little further along, across the road, is the Normafa station of the Children's Railway (3). Next to our path are a couple of establishments to grab a drink or snack, and on the other side of the road a new park is developed by the government, called "A Normafa kapuja" (4). A few more steps will take you to a forest path - you can keep on it, but I get back to the road to see another new development; it is going to be the Visitor Centre (5). My free-spirited friend Kálmán lived right there in a little house which obviously got demolished; what happened to Kálmán, I have no idea. Right next is Normafa Grill, a long-standing upmarket restaurant and bar, and opposite is the Normafa Síház, a "Ski House" (6). It is like a tourist house, with a simple restaurant and in winter it also serves as a warming place for skiers. A range of other all-year adventure sports are also offered at this base, and you find several kiosks around the Síház, including the famous strudel place. Now we are on the main forest path again. There are great views at several points next to clearings, I picked the viewpoint (7) next to the model of the Buda Hills. A short walk will take us to Anna rét (8), an open area with a playground and several fireplaces. More fireplaces are found across the field at the Szent Anna chapel (9). The forest path carries on all the way to the upper station of the chairlift (10). There is an observation terrace (11) little behind a kiosk. Back on the main path, there is a fork in the road, with a  shortcut via the forest (12). Either way, you will reach the summit of János-hegy where the Elizabeth Lookout (13) stands. After climbing to the top of the lookout tower, we return to the upper station of the chairlift (10). But instead of jumping into one, we take the narrow path next to it. It will lead to the Tündér-hegyi quarry (14) where there is a fireplace. Further down along the steep path is Tündér Rock (15) offering great views. From here there is a shortcut which I missed in the video, taking a longer path. They join at a junction (16) where you can find a couple of fireplaces and have a nice view of Tündér Rock. A little further down, a couple of steps off the path, is a small rock, the last viewpoint (17) of the hike. The urban area is not far now, reaching it at the Zugligeti Niche Camping (18). I don't know what makes it "niche", probably it is just a way of saying that although it's only a campground it's not cheap. The 2 old trams standing at the entrance are noteworthy - I remember when Zugliget was served by the 58 line and these were still in use. The bottom station of the chairlift (19) is a few more steps, and some 100 metres further you have the Zugliget bus stop with different options back to the city.

Hyperlapse video of the hike

I had a couple of beers and a few cigarettes along the hike as you may see in the video - I know this is not exactly a healthy lifestyle, but at least I'm responsible. I do not litter, not even a cigarette butt, and try hard to cut down on the amount of waste I produce. My message is, enjoy yourself but don't spoil nature!